FAS 604

[zunmik]

One of the sexiest looking SSP's ever IMO.

I think I need one.........

Here's another piccy to keep you happy, M.

[garryt]

That's just being cruel.........

[zooma]

One of the sexiest looking SSP's ever IMO.

I think I need one.........

Here's another piccy to keep you happy, M.

Ahhhhhh - a nice mark one - mine looked just like that - but with the adjustable palm shelf.

[zunmik]

I had no idea what mark it was, i bought it cos it shot ok, and had recently been serviced, when i get time i still need to sort the trigger + a little tweak of the grip with the dremel this will then become my bell target pistol, M

[zooma]

Good choice - nice pistol !

[RobinC]

There you are Bob,
I'm not the only loon who polishes! Yo can't beat a bit of bling!

I can't put the piccy of mine on here, its outside the limit and I'm not clever enough to alter it, but is polished the other way around, the frame blinged the, the barrel black. I think it looks nice but then I'm a sad old fart!
Zunmit
To set up the trigger, I presume you know that there is a dry fire stage with the FAS, just cock back until you hear a click and then close, it will then dry fire with out fully cocking and discharging air. It just cocks the trigger and you can do all your set up like that. The best routine is to get a start points, take the travel screw (2) back a/c until you have a reasonable travel, and the back stop (5) in c/w so its clear, then set 2nd stage (4) back a/c so that the gun fires but don't go for a fine sear point yet, you just want the screw contacting, actually just like it shows in the drawing (but you can't see it!). Then adjust in the 1st stage (3) so you have a 1st stage, dont bother too much about the length you want the 1st stage as it will alter as you fine tune the sear (4). If you are really jammy you may have set them spot on , but unlikely! Now go back to the sear 4 and carefully take it in c/w a 1/4 turn a time and try it feeling for a crisp let off, as you go in you will alter the first stage as well shortening it, so as that shortens slowly take that (3) in to maintain a first stage. If you go too far you will make the 1st stage the 2nd and it will trip immediately, this shows that you have both in too far and need to back both off and start again. As you get close to crisp, adjust 4 in much less than 1/4 turns. Phew! it may take a few abortive trys but when you get that ballance between the two it will be crisp. You will reach a point when you will be just finely tweaking 3 and 4 together, one in one out, its a feel thing and you may lose the will to live during the process! When crisp, don't touch 4 or 3 again and adjust 2 in c/w to get the length of first stage travel to your taste. Then bring out the back stop 5 so the trigger movement stops just as the sear breaks with no overtravel. If you don't lose the will to live during the process you will get a fabulous trigger, mine is as good as any thing I have including Steyr electronics.

[Certus]

Hi,

Although I'm basically a spring air pistol fan I do accept they are not ideal for precision 10 metre target shooting except for maybe the few specialist German pistols (Feinwerkbau etc). I do enjoy some serious 10 metre shooting though so settled on a FAS 604 which I have owned for more than 10 years without any problems. I chose the FAS because it's self contained and has the compact appearance of a live firing pistol.
You may remember that before the infamous pistol ban in 1995 FAS made identical live firing match pistols in .22LR & .32 calibre to allow for different training environments.

Hope you enjoy your new purchase as much as I enjoy mine.

Regards

Brian

[zooma]

There you are Bob,
I'm not the only loon who polishes! Yo can't beat a bit of bling!

I can't put the piccy of mine on here, its outside the limit and I'm not clever enough to alter it, but is polished the other way around, the frame blinged the, the barrel black. I think it looks nice but then I'm a sad old fart!
Zunmit
To set up the trigger, I presume you know that there is a dry fire stage with the FAS, just cock back until you hear a click and then close, it will then dry fire with out fully cocking and discharging air. It just cocks the trigger and you can do all your set up like that. The best routine is to get a start points, take the travel screw (2) back a/c until you have a reasonable travel, and the back stop (5) in c/w so its clear, then set 2nd stage (4) back a/c so that the gun fires but don't go for a fine sear point yet, you just want the screw contacting, actually just like it shows in the drawing (but you can't see it!). Then adjust in the 1st stage (3) so you have a 1st stage, dont bother too much about the length you want the 1st stage as it will alter as you fine tune the sear (4). If you are really jammy you may have set them spot on , but unlikely! Now go back to the sear 4 and carefully take it in c/w a 1/4 turn a time and try it feeling for a crisp let off, as you go in you will alter the first stage as well shortening it, so as that shortens slowly take that (3) in to maintain a first stage. If you go too far you will make the 1st stage the 2nd and it will trip immediately, this shows that you have both in too far and need to back both off and start again. As you get close to crisp, adjust 4 in much less than 1/4 turns. Phew! it may take a few abortive trys but when you get that ballance between the two it will be crisp. You will reach a point when you will be just finely tweaking 3 and 4 together, one in one out, its a feel thing and you may lose the will to live during the process! When crisp, don't touch 4 or 3 again and adjust 2 in c/w to get the length of first stage travel to your taste. Then bring out the back stop 5 so the trigger movement stops just as the sear breaks with no overtravel. If you don't lose the will to live during the process you will get a fabulous trigger, mine is as good as any thing I have including Steyr electronics.

Your trigger set-up instructions are detailed and invaluable - how about repeating those that you gave me for my Walther 300 Anatomical rifle on a thread in the rifle section - your instructions work a treat and have given me the best trigger I have ever had on any of my airguns so it would be good to share this with other CAPA members. Good job!

[RobinC]

The FAS 604 is still made, in very small batches and the price reflects the difference between them and the copies, it was round £600 the last I heard.
When I bought my first one I was in a limbo of having shot with a FWB65 for many years quite successfully, i changed to a Walther CP1 which I loved but at the time was on FAC due to the " noxious gas propelent" and I found that open meetings would not let me use it saying wrongly that it was firearm and could only be used on approved ranges so I was ending up always taking and using the old 65. I also bought a FAS 604, I liked it and used it for years, I tried a FAS .22RF as well, but that was a heap of unreliable rubbish and I bought a Walther GSP instead and used that until Mr Blair relieved us of them. I also changed to a Walther LPM -1 air pistol around the same time. I have to admit I'm a Walther man at heart and the LPM -1 is my favourite SSP.
Holland allows .22RF pistols on FAC's and target air pistols are off licence, but I think sensibly they have banned all realistic replicas, air or not, sadly the FAS 604 has got caught in that bracket so is not permitted there unless on FAC which of course is not worth the hassle.

[zunmik]

There you are Bob,
I'm not the only loon who polishes! Yo can't beat a bit of bling!

I can't put the piccy of mine on here, its outside the limit and I'm not clever enough to alter it, but is polished the other way around, the frame blinged the, the barrel black. I think it looks nice but then I'm a sad old fart!
Zunmit
To set up the trigger, I presume you know that there is a dry fire stage with the FAS, just cock back until you hear a click and then close, it will then dry fire with out fully cocking and discharging air. It just cocks the trigger and you can do all your set up like that. The best routine is to get a start points, take the travel screw (2) back a/c until you have a reasonable travel, and the back stop (5) in c/w so its clear, then set 2nd stage (4) back a/c so that the gun fires but don't go for a fine sear point yet, you just want the screw contacting, actually just like it shows in the drawing (but you can't see it!). Then adjust in the 1st stage (3) so you have a 1st stage, dont bother too much about the length you want the 1st stage as it will alter as you fine tune the sear (4). If you are really jammy you may have set them spot on , but unlikely! Now go back to the sear 4 and carefully take it in c/w a 1/4 turn a time and try it feeling for a crisp let off, as you go in you will alter the first stage as well shortening it, so as that shortens slowly take that (3) in to maintain a first stage. If you go too far you will make the 1st stage the 2nd and it will trip immediately, this shows that you have both in too far and need to back both off and start again. As you get close to crisp, adjust 4 in much less than 1/4 turns. Phew! it may take a few abortive trys but when you get that ballance between the two it will be crisp. You will reach a point when you will be just finely tweaking 3 and 4 together, one in one out, its a feel thing and you may lose the will to live during the process! When crisp, don't touch 4 or 3 again and adjust 2 in c/w to get the length of first stage travel to your taste. Then bring out the back stop 5 so the trigger movement stops just as the sear breaks with no overtravel. If you don't lose the will to live during the process you will get a fabulous trigger, mine is as good as any thing I have including Steyr electronics.

Thanks for the trigger info i will do this as soon as i'm able to shoot again, i look forward to shooting it asap, thanks,M.

[zunmik]

There you are Bob,
I'm not the only loon who polishes! Yo can't beat a bit of bling!

I can't put the piccy of mine on here, its outside the limit and I'm not clever enough to alter it, but is polished the other way around, the frame blinged the, the barrel black. I think it looks nice but then I'm a sad old fart!
Zunmit
To set up the trigger, I presume you know that there is a dry fire stage with the FAS, just cock back until you hear a click and then close, it will then dry fire with out fully cocking and discharging air. It just cocks the trigger and you can do all your set up like that. The best routine is to get a start points, take the travel screw (2) back a/c until you have a reasonable travel, and the back stop (5) in c/w so its clear, then set 2nd stage (4) back a/c so that the gun fires but don't go for a fine sear point yet, you just want the screw contacting, actually just like it shows in the drawing (but you can't see it!). Then adjust in the 1st stage (3) so you have a 1st stage, dont bother too much about the length you want the 1st stage as it will alter as you fine tune the sear (4). If you are really jammy you may have set them spot on , but unlikely! Now go back to the sear 4 and carefully take it in c/w a 1/4 turn a time and try it feeling for a crisp let off, as you go in you will alter the first stage as well shortening it, so as that shortens slowly take that (3) in to maintain a first stage. If you go too far you will make the 1st stage the 2nd and it will trip immediately, this shows that you have both in too far and need to back both off and start again. As you get close to crisp, adjust 4 in much less than 1/4 turns. Phew! it may take a few abortive trys but when you get that ballance between the two it will be crisp. You will reach a point when you will be just finely tweaking 3 and 4 together, one in one out, its a feel thing and you may lose the will to live during the process! When crisp, don't touch 4 or 3 again and adjust 2 in c/w to get the length of first stage travel to your taste. Then bring out the back stop 5 so the trigger movement stops just as the sear breaks with no overtravel. If you don't lose the will to live during the process you will get a fabulous trigger, mine is as good as any thing I have including Steyr electronics.

I finally got to have a go @ the Fas last week thanks to your great instructions it went very well, its not quite "crisp" yet, but much better than before its just a matter of the final tweaks over time, I am now managing some very tight groups best for a long time (not always in the right place ), but did do very well on the bell target with it so well pleased, M.

[Vyand]

Aesthetically it looks a lot better than the Gamo Compact.
I'm told the build quality and finish is better.
Another one for my wishlist

[zunmik]

Aesthetically it looks a lot better than the Gamo Compact.
I'm told the build quality and finish is better.
Another one for my wishlist

It is better than the Compact in all areas especially the trigger, heft, & hold, however I still think the compact is a great pistol I continue to shoot mine & the results are not far behind the Fas, but so it should be I've been shooting the Compact for over twenty years, M.

[pmh]

I'll be giving my Compact a go for July's 6 yard MPL.

Kind regards,



Phil

[zooma]

I'll be giving my Compact a go for July's 6 yard MPL.

Kind regards,

Phil

Ahem - I think you will need a second entry to do this - your Model 10 needs the exercise